Fruit and Chocolate

By Donald Wressell, Executive Pastry Chef, Guittard Chocolate Company     

Whether you are working with a complex blend or a pointed single origin, you can design a flavor journey unique to your style and your customers' tastes. Finding the right way to deliver those added flavors elevates your creation. Perhaps infusing an Earl Grey tea into a cream is the right choice, or picking fresh kumquats from your garden which are then zested straight onto the plate as a finishing zing; you get to design how those flavors can enhance and complement the chocolate in your desserts. 

 Yet whatever the chosen medium to create that exponential or innovative experience, the timeless pairing of fruit and chocolate seems always to be just that - timeless. Having access to a diverse array of flavors to heighten your chosen chocolates is imperative. Fresh fruit is one approach, though sometimes plucking a kumquat from a tree isn't possible. As an alternative, purées provide a canvas of flavors, but can also take on a variety of forms in a wide range of finished desserts, confections and baked goods. 

Integrating purées has the capacity to not only impact flavor, but also texture in exciting and unassuming ways. Layering textures complements the multiple expressions of both chocolate and purées, either solo or harmonized in concert with one another. One may choose to select a fruit flavor that complements the chosen chocolates and integrate that flavor into all components of the finished dessert. Alternatively, deconstructing each element of a dessert allows a different yet complementary experience to take hold - leaning into the adage that the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. 

Take, for instance, a confectionery application: layering in a trio of textures of a single flavored purée can create a sense of harmony - a common thread that wouldn't otherwise exist. It's simply a different approach with the same end goal, which is to deliver that premium tasting experience in every bite. A verrine can deliver a completely different tasting experience, even with all the same components but just with different purée. Layering each piece within the verrine offers a new way to experience each flavor - they hold their own as a single bite, while delivering yet again a harmonized flavor. Similarly, with ice cream, one has the opportunity to infuse flavor in the same layered way, however, the added element of temperature creates something new. Temperature almost always creates a different expression of flavor; exploring contrasting temperatures with selected purée applications as well as chosen chocolate ones can create a refreshing yet rich experience. 

In Guittard's latest collaboration, we've partnered with our like-minded industry friend, Les vergers Boiron, to develop a series of recipes. Two companies, two products, and three pastry chefs worked together to create nine exciting recipes that celebrate the timelessness and ability for innovation of not only chocolate and fruit, but also craft and sustainability. 

Chocolate Cassis Bouchee   

By Josh Johnson, Pastry Chef, Guittard Chocolate 

The three layers of this bouchee come to life through its unique combination of ingredients. The warm chocolate and spice notes of Guittard's 64% L Etoile du Nord, and the subtle caramel notes of the 38% Cacao Soleil d'Or Milk Chocolate harmonize with the bold flavor of the Boiron Cassis (blackcurrant) Purée, giving this triple-layer confection a bright and bold finish. 

Yield: forty-five 1.6" (41 mm) confections 

Cassis PÂte De Fruit

Ingredients

• 220 g granulated sugar, divided 

• 7 g yellow pectin 

• 85 g glucose powder 

• 250 g Boiron Cassis Purée 

• 62 g apple juice 

• 57 g glucose syrup 

• 6 g citric acid solution, 1:1 

Method

1. Combine 30 g of the granulated sugar with the pectin, mixing very well. Set aside. 

2. Combine the remaining 190 g granulated sugar with the glucose powder and set aside. 

3. Combine the Boiron Cassis Purée with the apple juice. Warm the mixture, sprinkle in pectin mixture and whisk well. Bring the mixture to a boil, add sugar-glucose mixture and the glucose syrup, whisk, and return to a boil. Cook to 225°F(107°C), then whisk in citric acid solution. 

4. Cast the mixture into 1/8" thick frame and allow to cool. When cool, cut circles to fit bonbon cavities. 

Cassis Marshmallow

Ingredients

• 7 g gelatin sheets 

• 28 g water 

• 7 g lemon juice 

• 70 g trimoline, divided 

• 57 g cassis purée 

• 13.5 g apple juice 

• 100 g granulated sugar 

• 1.75 g citric acid solution, 1:1 

Method

1. Bloom the gelatin with the water and lemon juice. 

2. Once the gelatin is bloomed, place it in a 5-qt mixing bowl with 35 g of the trimoline. Set aside. 

3. Combine the cassis purée, apple juice, sugar, citric acid solution and the remaining 35 g trimoline and cook to 230°F(110°C). Add to the gelatin mixture in the mixing bowl and, using the whisk attachment, whip on high speed. When volume is achieved, switch to medium speed until mixture reaches 86°F (30°C). Remove from mixer and pipe into precast chocolate shells, filling them 1/3 full. Press disc of pate de fruit into the marshmallow layer. 

Cassis Ganache

Ingredients

• 77 g Boiron Cassis Purée 

• 1 g citric acid powder 

• 45 g heavy cream 

• 10 g granulated sugar 

• 14 g powdered glucose 

• 93 g 64% Cacao L'Etoile du Nord 

• 24 g 38% Cacao Soleil d'Or Milk Chocolate 

• 10 g unsalted butter, room temperature 

Method

1. Combine the Boiron Cassis Purée, the citric acid powder, heavy cream, sugar and powdered glucose. Heat to a simmer. Pour over the chocolate; allow to rest for 2 minutes. Stir to emulsify. 

2. At 100°F (38°C), add the room temperature butter and emulsify well with an immersion blender. At 90°F (32°C), cast into the marshmallow filled shell, leaving room for a final cap. 

38% Soleil d'Or Earl Grey Ice Cream and Bergamot Sorbet Pop 

By Donald Wressell, Executive Pastry Chef, Guittard Chocolate  

This ice cream pairs subtle caramel and fresh dairy notes of Guittard's 38% Cacao Soleil d'Or Milk Chocolate together with an infusion of rich, bold Earl Grey tea. Those two flavors are further complemented by bergamot sorbet, creating a fragrant and refreshing finish. 

Yield: about 20-22 pops 

Bergamot Sorbet

Ingredients

• 3.75 g stabilizer 

• 187 g granulated sugar, divided 

• 487 g water 

• 44 g glucose powder 

• 5 g invert sugar 

• 250 g Boiron Bergamot Purée 

Method

1. Mix stabilizer with about 25% of the sugar. 

2. In a saucepan, heat the water, remaining sugar, glucose powder and invert sugar to 104°F (40°C). Rain in stabilizer mix. Refrigerate for 4-12 hours. 

3. Using immersion blender, blend base with purée. Process in batch freezer. 

38% Soleil D'or Earl Grey Ice Cream

Ingredients

• 4 g stabilizer 

• 50 g granulated sugar, divided 

• 600 g water 

• 12 g Earl Grey tea leaves 

• 33 g non-fat milk powder 

• 10 g whey protein 80% 

• 20 g egg yolks 

• 98 g invert sugar 

• 185 g Guittard 38% Cacao Soleil d'Or Milk Chocolate 

Method 

1. Mix stabilizer with 25% of the sugar. 

2. In saucepan, heat water to the boil, add the tea leaves, cover and infuse for 15 minutes. Strain and adjust with water to 600 g. 

3. Bring tea infusion, remaining granulated sugar, milk powder, whey protein, egg yolks and invert sugar to 104°F (40°C). Rain in stabilizer. At 140°F (60°C), add chocolate and cook to 185°F (85°C). Cool rapidly and refrigerate for 4-12 hours. 

4. Mix with immersion blender and process in batch freezer. 

Milk Chocolate Dip 

Ingredients

• 500 g Guittard 38% Soleil d'Or Milk Chocolate 

• 500 g cocoa butter 

Method 

1. Heat the chocolate and cocoa butter to 120°F(48°C). Cool to 97°F (36°C). 

Assembly 

Method 

1. Mold sorbet in a Flexipan small hemisphere mold. Blast freeze. 

2. Unmold and pipe Milk Chocolate Ice Cream into pop mold. Press sorbet randomly into mold. Strike clean with a palette knife. Blast freeze. 

3. Unmold and dip in Milk Chocolate Dip at -10°F(-23°C). Garnish as desired. 

Raspberry, White Chocolate & Vanilla Verrine 

By Michael Laiskonis 

Served as an elegant plated dessert, or scaled-down to a pre-dessert, this verrine shows off multiple expressions of Boiron's Raspberry Purée. Guittard's Creme Française 31% White Chocolate adds depth and a creamy counterpoint. 

Yield: 10 verrines 

Raspberry Gelée

Ingredients

• 225 g Boiron Raspberry Purée 

• 75 g fresh raspberries 

• 1.5 gelatin sheets, bloomed 

• 50 g invert sugar 

Method 

1. Combine the raspberry purée and fresh raspberries in a saucepan. Gently bring to a simmer and remove from heat. 

2. Whisk in the gelatin and invert sugar. Deposit the mixture to verrine glasses and freeze to set. 

Raspberry White Chocolate Creméux

Ingredients

• 75 g whole milk 

• 75 g heavy cream (36% fat) 

• 40 g glucose syrup 

• 3 gelatin sheets, bloomed 

• 75 g Guittard Creme Française 31% White Couverture Chocolate, chopped 

• 300 g Boiron Raspberry Purée 

Method 

1. Combine the milk, cream and glucose in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and stir in the bloomed gelatin. 

2. Whisk in the white chocolate and raspberry purée. 

3. Emulsify thoroughly with an immersion blender. Deposit a layer of the cremeux into verrine glasses and chill to set. 

Vanilla Parfait 

Ingredients

• 150 g whole milk 

• 210 g heavy cream (36% fat), divided 

• 80 g granulated sugar 

• ½ vanilla bean, split and scraped 

• 2 g lemon zest 

• 80 g egg yolks, beaten 

• 4 gelatin sheets, bloomed 

Method 

1. Combine the milk, 50 g of the heavy cream, the sugar, vanilla bean and lemon zest in a small saucepan. Bring just to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat and slowly whisk in the egg yolks. Return to heat and cook to 185°F (85°C). Add the bloomed gelatin, strain, and allow to cool to 86°F(30°C). 

2. Whip the remaining 160 g cream and gently fold it into the cooled base. 

3. Deposit a layer of the mousse into verrine glasses and chill. 

Assembly

Ingredients

• Fresh raspberries 

• Pistachio nuts 

• Confectioners' sugar 

• White chocolate decor 

• Edible gold leaf 

Method 

1. Allow the verrines to temper under refrigeration and garnish with raspberries, pistachio nuts, confectioners' sugar, white chocolate decor and gold leaf.